Chantelle Nicholson has spent years rethinking what it means to cook and eat responsibly. At Apricity, her Michelin Green Star restaurant in London’s Mayfair, every detail – from the ingredients used in the kitchen to the way the space itself is designed – reflects a deep commitment to working with nature rather than against it. Ingredients are sourced with care, waste is minimised, and dishes celebrate what’s in season, not what’s in demand.
Originally from New Zealand and a trained lawyer, Chantelle’s path to the kitchen was unconventional, but her precise, analytical approach to food systems has made her one of the most respected voices in the industry.
In this conversation, Chantelle reflects on the broken relationship many people have with food, the urgent need for better education, and how small, everyday choices – whether in a restaurant or at home – can add up to something much bigger.
I guess my journey to where I am now has been more of a natural evolution than a sudden lightbulb moment. Growing up in New Zealand, I was fortunate to have access to incredible produce and seasonal eating – it wasn’t a choice; it was just how things were. That upbringing gave me a deep respect for food and its origins. I saw the hard work that went into growing it, and that connection stayed with me. Seeing the mass production of food and the way things have become so industrialised has always made me feel uncomfortable.
Living in London now, I realise how different it is for so many people. There’s often such a disconnect between the food we eat and where it comes from. I think a lot of that stems from a lack of education. It’s why I believe so strongly that cooking should be a compulsory skill taught in schools. What we put in our bodies is one of the most important things for our health, productivity, and overall wellbeing. Yet food education isn’t even on the curriculum anymore, and that’s horrifying to me.
Cooking should be as fundamental a life skill as reading and writing.
I’m a firm believer in starting with children because they’re where the longest-lasting change can happen. There are some great initiatives, like school gardens, but it’s not enough. We need to teach people, from a young age, the true cost of food and how much effort goes into producing it. The effects of poor diets aren’t just about individual health, but about the burden on the NHS, productivity in the workplace, and even creativity. What we eat shapes how we function. Cooking should be as fundamental a life skill as reading and writing. It’s shocking that we teach children how to do advanced maths, that most will never use in daily life, yet we don’t ensure they can feed themselves properly.
But it’s not just children; adults need to be part of the conversation too. I think we’ve lost the value of food – the true cost of producing it, the effort involved, and the joy it can bring. We’ve become so used to abundance, but not necessarily of the right things. In the UK, particularly in London, it’s so easy to be completely removed from where food comes from. Cooking more, reducing waste, and simply pausing before making a purchase are small but meaningful ways to rebuild that connection. It’s about making people aware of how much better food can be when it’s valued properly.
Affordability is a big challenge, especially now with the cost-of-living crisis. But there are still ways to eat well without spending a fortune. Pulses, for example, are incredibly nutritious, affordable, and sustainable. A big bag of vegetables from a local market can cost less than people think. It’s about awareness, knowledge, and changing habits. People often don’t cook because they don’t know how, or they think it’s too time-consuming. Education plays a massive role in that.
It’s not about being perfect – it’s about doing the best we can with the options we have.
At the restaurant, we’re guided by what’s available. Our menus are based entirely on seasonal produce, which means we avoid many of the supply chain issues others face. We don’t use out-of-season produce, so shortages of tomatoes or lettuces don’t impact us. There’s a huge benefit to working with what’s naturally available rather than trying to source ingredients at any cost.
That said, it’s a constant balancing act, especially when it comes to things like packaging. Sometimes you have to choose between the lesser of two evils – one option might be plastic-free but have other sustainability drawbacks. But we approach every decision consciously. It’s not about being perfect – it’s about doing the best we can with the options we have.
When it comes to sourcing, I feel strongly about regenerative farming. I believe animal farming, when done right, can play a crucial role in soil health and biodiversity. That doesn’t mean we should be eating meat constantly – quite the opposite – but it can coexist with plant-based systems in a way that benefits both the environment and our nutrition. There’s a strong case for supporting farmers who are doing things properly. Nutritionally, well-farmed meat is far better, and regenerative farming has a positive impact on the land. The challenge is helping more farmers transition to better practices and ensuring that people understand why it matters.
Ultimately, food can be a powerful form of activism.
One thing that frustrates me is the way people often focus purely on carbon emissions when discussing food sustainability. Intensive farming might have a lower carbon footprint on paper, but holistically, it’s incredibly damaging. We need to look at soil health, biodiversity, and nutrition as part of the bigger picture. Instead of saying people should cut out meat entirely, we should be promoting hybrid options – things like sausages that are 50% meat, 50% vegetables. That way, people still get the nutrition and flavour they enjoy while significantly reducing their meat consumption.
There’s also the question of whether we should be paying farmers to stop farming and regenerate their land. It’s complex. Land ownership is already a huge issue, and while there are benefits to letting soil rest and rewilding in certain areas, there are also drawbacks. Sometimes, replenishing soil through careful, diverse cropping or rotational grazing can be just as effective. It has to be done in a way that makes sense for the land and the people who rely on it.
Food waste is another huge issue. In my kitchen, we work hard to use every part of an ingredient, which is good for the environment and also saves us money! Vegetable trimmings become stock, offcuts become new dishes, and nothing is wasted unless it absolutely has to be. It’s a mindset shift that can be applied at home, too. Learning to cook creatively with leftovers or make better use of ingredients can save money and reduce waste.
Ultimately, food can be a powerful form of activism. Whether it’s reducing meat consumption, supporting local producers, or cutting down on waste, we all have choices – even if some of us have more than others. It doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Start with one small change, and let it grow from there. Every little bit helps.
Food should be something we respect, value, and enjoy.
At the restaurant, we try to make sustainability part of the experience without being preachy. We want people to enjoy their meal first and foremost. Some guests come knowing exactly what we do; others discover it during their visit. Sometimes they leave saying, “Wow, I didn’t realise how much thought went into this.” That’s a great moment, because it means we’ve planted a seed.
I hope what we do sparks curiosity. Maybe it’s in the flavour of a perfectly ripened tomato, or the way we use ingredients in unexpected ways. I don’t expect everyone to leave an expert, but if it makes someone think differently about food, even in a small way, that’s a step in the right direction.
We need to reshape our relationship with food, from the way it’s grown to how it’s consumed. The cost of food isn’t just what we pay at the checkout. It’s tied to its quality, its effects on our health, and the toll it takes on people and the planet. If we can shift the mindset around food, we can create lasting change that benefits everyone, from farmers to consumers, and the planet itself.
If we continue to demand better food, produced in a way that respects the planet and the people who grow it, then the industry has to follow. Restaurants, supermarkets, and suppliers will adapt to what people want. But that shift has to start with knowledge – by educating ourselves, by making small, thoughtful choices, and by remembering that food should be something we respect, value, and enjoy.
As told to Charlotte Owen-Burge in March 2023, updated in January 2025. This conversation was edited & condensed for clarty.
So what's next?
Food is at the heart of some of our biggest challenges and solutions. If you’re inspired to take action, these organisations offer ways to get involved, whether through advocacy, education, or supporting better food practices.
At home
Feedback: Learn how to reduce food waste, shop sustainably, and make the most of every ingredient.
Food for Life: Discover resources for growing your own food, cooking nutritious meals, and reconnecting with seasonal eating.
OLIO: A food-sharing app that connects neighbours and local businesses to reduce food waste by sharing surplus food.
Grow It Yourself (GIY): Provides resources, inspiration, and support for people to grow their own food at home, no matter their space or experience.
Love Food Hate Waste: Offers practical tips, recipes, and tools to help reduce food waste, save money, and make the most of every ingredient.
At work
Chefs’ Manifesto: For hospitality professionals, this network provides tools to embed sustainable practices in kitchens and menus.
Sustainable Food Trust: Resources to help businesses and organisations adopt sustainable sourcing and reduce their environmental impact.
The Landworkers’ Alliance: Support sustainable farming practices through workplace initiatives or partnerships with local producers.
Wildfarmed: Support farmers restoring soil health by choosing regeneratively grown flour and grains for your home or businesss.
In education
School Food Matters: Advocates for food education in schools, supporting campaigns for better school meals and food literacy.
The Edible Schoolyard Project: Provides resources to help schools integrate gardening, cooking, and sustainable food practices into the curriculum.
Food for Life: Offers programmes for schools to improve food culture, teach cooking skills, and promote healthy eating habits.
LEAF Education: Connects young people with farming, food production, and sustainability through educational resources and farm visits.
In politics and advocacy
The Food Foundation: Join campaigns advocating for healthier, fairer food policies in schools, workplaces, and public institutions.
Soil Association: Support policy changes that promote organic farming, biodiversity, and sustainable agriculture.
Food Ethics Council: Engage in critical conversations about food justice, ethics, and sustainability to influence public discourse and policy.
Sustain: A UK alliance campaigning for better food and farming policies. Take part in national campaigns or local advocacy initiatives.
Compassion in World Farming: Advocates for higher animal welfare standards and more ethical farming practices. Get involved through campaigns, petitions, and supporting policy changes for humane food systems.
Zero Waste Europe: Practical tips to minimise food packaging waste and adopt a zero-waste lifestyle.
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